Grasse, the Perfume Capital, visit 1

The Fragonard Factory in Grasse

Ok, so it was a slight change of plan since my last blog…. Every time I am in Nice I keep thinking that I must visit Grasse. It is the perfume capital, and of course, I had a huge desire to go and learn about it. So since this was my last full day here, I decided to do it! Quite unprepared I might add, but I headed off regardless.

From Nice Ville, Grasse is just over an hour by train, at 9.10 euro each way and they run every hour, or thereabouts(there is bus but I imagine would take much longer). When you get on the train, don’t forget to sit upstairs, on the coast side (the left hand side as you face the direction of travel) to enjoy the lovely coastal view all the way to Cannes!

On arrival, in what looks like a rather nondescript, mountainous kind of suburb, I headed into the Tourist Information Office in the station and collected a bunch of brochures and a map of the town (yes, don’t we all love free things!). I discovered that the “town” is actually a bus ride away, or as the sign said “200 steps”, though there was no other signage directing me to those steps even if I was feeling game. And lo and behold there was a bus waiting there for me. The driver was very helpful and said that he'd let me off at my desired spot. (Well actually I discovered that it wasn’t my desired spot, but this place was even better!)

The winding, uphill trip gave me the opportunity to read the brochures and get semi acquainted with the town on my map. With only one problem, the SNCF train station I just got off was not on the map. So I had no idea where I was going, or coming from. No matter. I was dropped off at the Fragonard Perfume factory, so I was happy.

In the 15th Century Grasse was known through Europe for its thriving tanning industry. In the 16th Century its perfume industry grew from the latest trend for perfumed gloves made popular by Catherine de Medici, as well as the increasing interest in the cultivation of aromatic plants. (Grasse still supplies many of the raw ingredients used for perfume making today.)

Which brings us back to the Fragonard factory… One of the last family owned artisan factories remaining, this long running business has been making and selling perfume for over 80 years. Named by its founder’s great respect for the famous Grasse resident, Jean-Honore Fragonard was a famous painter whose parents were, conveniently, a glove maker and a perfumer.

The Fragonard factory, built in 1782, contains the worlds first perfume museum which opened in 1976 where the founders grandson, Jean-Francois Costa, pays tribute to the artists and artisans who shaped the craft of fragrance making for centuries. Artefacts, equipment and memorabilia from Ancient Egypt times through to more recent times are on display here. (The business is still run by Jean-Francois' three daughters.)

Heading to the bottom floor, I discover that they conduct free guided tours, every 15-20 mins or so, in many different languages.  This takes you very briefly through the steps of manufacturing a perfume, and soap, including a beautiful display of an old method (not used since the 70’s) of extracting an essence from flowers (see photos below).

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Filtering the essences...

Making soap eggs...

Getting the essence from flowers....

* Flowers were placed face down into animal fat. These flowers were changed every day for a month. Alcohol was used to wash the fat from the board and this was then boiled off. The fragrant oil remaining was the essence.

The final room on this floor is the Creation Room, though I could have sworn she called it the Nose Room. A perfumer must study for 3 years, followed by 7 years of training before they are qualified. Upon completion, they must be able to identify up to 3000 essences!

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The last stop of the tour is, of course, the Boutique. Here we do some smell tests and try to distinguish the different flowers, wood and spices in some perfume. It’s fascinating as some smells really are quite obvious, while others subtly tease the nose with an uncertain recognition. No, I wasn’t buying anything so I quickly exited the building…

Phew, out onto the street to breathe some (relatively) odourless air. Too many smells certainly do take its toll.

I discover that Grasse old town is a one minute walk away. It is quite similar to other old French towns, in that it is car free, with small winding streets that are braced by shops and cafes. Small squares open up and accommodate the larger cafes. One glorious addition to this town however, are the mist hoses draped across the street in regular intervals. It’s a welcome relief from the heat of the day. Thank you Grasse.

But that was all I had time for here today. So after following (read: chasing) a bus that had GARE SNCF as it’s destination, I stumbled upon the Gare Routiere, or what is known in English as the Bus Station! Bonus!

There was much more to see in Grasse, but I always need an excuse to come back to a town, so I have many more excuses left to come back to Grasse.